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A Full-Circle Farewell
Drum'n'bass may never conquer the world, but it managed to outlast this column by Tricia Romano May 29th, 2007 8:35 PM I'm ending it the way I started. Once upo. . .
Haven Can Wait
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Greasy and Sublime
Grab a gob of pizza at Grand Street's flagship by Robert Sietsema September 26th, 2006 11:53 AM We sat stunned in the lovely back garden of Baci Abbracci, our g. . .
La Dolce Musto
by Michael Musto October 24th, 2006 2:09 PM You see strange things in airports these days. Before boarding my plane to Miami last week, I noticed other passenge. . .
Single White WontonChoice Ch
Choice Chao might well be the best Thai in town by Robert Sietsema October 27th, 2006 1:28 PM This place is way better than Sripraphai, my Thai American friend . . .
Fashion Victim
Mike Gallagher claims NYU is threatening his famous vintage magazine empire. And he wants some payback. by Lynn Yaeger June 12th, 2007 6:16 PM Fuck NYU! It's th. . .
Ale-ing Tiger Prevails
by Elizabeth Thompson June 13th, 2007 3:22 PM Thank goodness for the patience of Blind Tiger Ale House (281 Bleecker Street). When the beer-buff haven was pushe. . .
Georgia on My Mind
Gotham continues to suck the best sushi chefs from the rest of the country by Robert Sietsema June 19th, 2007 8:41 PM I was sent to Atlanta in 2002 by a glossy . . .
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Arnaud Erhart's last meal
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. . . requires the guts of a woodcock
by Nina Lalli
June 19th, 2007 8:42 PM
Arnaud Erhart, who owns 360 in Red Hook, would go out with a diverse feast that, like the food at 360, is simple but also special. Too bad you have to go France, or at least Canada, to experience the delicacy he says is much better than foie gras. By the way, 360 is currently renovating so be sure to call before trekking to Red Hook.
So, your last meal. It would be heavy on liquid, and reflect my diverse background. The Alsatian part is white asparagus, just steamed, from the backyard when I was a kid. I'd drink a Pierre Overnoy, like 50, 60, 70 years old. Then, something with white truffles, but again, the simpler the better—just shaved over steamed potatoes. And I would drink a wine from the Slovenian border of Italy. Radikon's "Ribolla Gialla," which is made the old-fashioned way—pressed with the skin, so you end up with a white, intense flavor. My mom's from Algeria. I would have her couscous and mutton tripes with coriander and paprika. It takes a lot of cleaning, but it's delicious. It's not like when you buy them in Chinatown and they look like they've been bleached. She used to bring tripes home when I was a kid, and I would have to clean them. I hated that.
I would imagine. You boil it in a boullion with sweet paprika for a few hours, then crush some garlic and hot paprika, and cook it with a little of the boullion. The couscous is a coarse semolina grain called barbouche, and she'd serve steamed zucchini. I would drink an old Syrah from Dard et Ribo. Of course, all these wines are natural—no chemicals, or sugar. No nothing.
Of course. Next would be roasted woodcocks—not exactly legal here. The beauty of these birds is, you roast them whole, with the guts inside. Afterward, you have this delicious guts, and you spread it on toasted bread. It's much better than foie gras.
What's the meat like? Very gamey, like wild squab, but a lot more tender. For this, Burgundy is the only way to go. A Philippe Pacalet with a few years on it would do this justice. And then I'd go out on a Madeira—an old, dry one; a Sercial, like from 1845—and certainly a Cuban cigar.
Any sweets? I'm not much of a sweet tooth. I would have a very old, aged goat cheese, which shrinks a lot, loses its water and gets hard, but gains incredible complexity. Also, raw milk cheese, maybe Hooligan from Cato Farm. I'd rather have the liquid sweets than the solid kind though.
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A Full-Circle Farewell
Drum'n'bass may never conquer the world, but it managed to outlast this column by Tricia Romano May 29th, 2007 8:35 PM I'm ending it the way I started. Once upo
Haven Can Wait
Rehab as a beautiful experience, plus cracks about pies. Psst! Ted Haggard was a top. by Michael Musto June 19th, 2007 6:55 PM Luscious '07a benefit for the Ali
Greasy and Sublime
Grab a gob of pizza at Grand Street's flagship by Robert Sietsema September 26th, 2006 11:53 AM We sat stunned in the lovely back garden of Baci Abbracci, our g
La Dolce Musto
by Michael Musto October 24th, 2006 2:09 PM You see strange things in airports these days. Before boarding my plane to Miami last week, I noticed other passenge
Single White WontonChoice Ch
Choice Chao might well be the best Thai in town by Robert Sietsema October 27th, 2006 1:28 PM This place is way better than Sripraphai, my Thai American friend
Fashion Victim
Mike Gallagher claims NYU is threatening his famous vintage magazine empire. And he wants some payback. by Lynn Yaeger June 12th, 2007 6:16 PM Fuck NYU! It's th
Ale-ing Tiger Prevails
by Elizabeth Thompson June 13th, 2007 3:22 PM Thank goodness for the patience of Blind Tiger Ale House (281 Bleecker Street). When the beer-buff haven was pushe
Georgia on My Mind
Gotham continues to suck the best sushi chefs from the rest of the country by Robert Sietsema June 19th, 2007 8:41 PM I was sent to Atlanta in 2002 by a glossy
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